On 23 January 2025, the French National Agency for Food, Environmental and Occupational Health & Safety (ANSES), in collaboration with the General Directorate for Competition Policy, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Control (DGCCRF) and the General Directorate for Health (DGS), issued a critical warning regarding the use of hair straightening products containing glyoxylic acid. This action follows the identification of four cases of acute renal failure linked to the use of such products since the beginning of the year.
Overview of the Alert
Glyoxylic acid is commonly used in certain hair smoothing treatments, particularly those marketed as “Brazilian blowouts,” due to its hair-straightening properties. However, recent findings have raised serious concerns about its potential systemic toxicity when applied topically.
In a formal opinion, ANSES concluded that glyoxylic acid is likely to cause acute renal failure in specific exposure scenarios. The cases reported since October 2024 were reviewed through France’s national cosmetovigilance system and are believed to be associated with using hair straightening products containing this substance.
Scientific Assessment and Regulatory Gaps
ANSES began investigating the safety profile of glyoxylic acid in mid-2024 following an initial alert from French researchers and the Académie de Médecine in March 2024. Despite its presence in several commercial formulations, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has not yet evaluated glyoxylic acid. It is not currently regulated on cosmetic products under Annexes of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.
As a result, ANSES has formally recommended that the French authorities submit this substance for assessment at the European level, which may prompt a referral to the SCCS. Depending on the outcome of the risk assessment, this could lead to restrictions or even a prohibition of glyoxylic acid in cosmetic products marketed within the EU.
Additionally, ANSES urges vigilance regarding formulations containing precursors or derivatives capable of degrading into glyoxylic acid, which could pose similar risks.
Recommended Actions
Until a full toxicological review is completed, French authorities advise against using cosmetic products containing glyoxylic acid, especially those intended for hair smoothing or straightening.
Healthcare professionals and users are encouraged to report any adverse effects associated with these products. Symptoms of acute renal failure can include severe abdominal or lumbar pain, nausea, and vomiting, often manifesting within hours after exposure.
Obligations for Cosmetic Product Marketers
ANSES emphasized that cosmetic manufacturers and distributors are responsible for ensuring product safety by Article 3 of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. Companies are therefore urged to:
- Re-evaluate the toxicological safety of products containing glyoxylic acid or its precursors.
- Review the scientific relevance and adequacy of their product safety assessments.
- Ensure that appropriate precautionary measures are indicated and validated.
